Stauter-built. "Cedar Point Special"

by Stan Strobel
(Gulf breeze, Florida )

Bought her from man in ALberta Al.

It is a 1976 Stauter-Built "14' Cedar Point Special" made in Mobile, Al. by Lenard Stauter.

Been in the weeds by a shed and the bottom was partly rotted out.

The construction is fir plywood over mahogany frame, with oak trim.

Needs work and am looking for help as to where to start.

Comments for Stauter-built. "Cedar Point Special"

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Aug 18, 2014
 Stan's Stauter Built
by: Rick H.

Can't tell the date these posts were made, but I live in Gulf Breeze and have a 15 1/2' Cedar Point I want to restore.

Would like to talk to Stan if possible. 850-291-9515.
Nov 15, 2011
 Great job
by: steve

Stan I love keeping up with your progress .

You are doing a great job and I can't wait to cruise with you in my stauter on Mobile bay.

Keep up the good work neighbor





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Nov 15, 2011
 Paint
by: Terry

The paint was purchased from Bayou Lumber in Bayou La Batre Al.

I used BLP Speed Deck, deck and floor enamel paint the color was pine green.

Use mopoxy for brushing, paint thinner.

I cut the paint thin so it would flow better.

I painted 5 coats on the bottom and sides.

Sanding between each coat, that makes the finish slick and very shinny.

It may seem like over kill but I wanted a show finish.
Nov 02, 2011
 replace the bottom
by: stan

Terry,

I forgot to ask you what kind of paint did you use on the bottom and was it the Stauter green and where did you get it?

Thanks,
Stan
Nov 02, 2011
 Cedar point special-bottom replacement
by: Stan

Terry,
Your are right the bottom is 3/8" and I have cut all the rot out of the plywood and stringers that were rotten and have replaced the 7/8" x 1-1/4" mahogany stringer as needed.

The frames were repairable.

I did not remove the keel , and the transom was perfect.

Resorcinol glue plywood to stringers, and thickened west epoxy system for the scarfing connections plywood to plywood.

Thanks,

Stan
Nov 01, 2011
 Brass nails
by: Terry

No problem I pulled them from the bottom with little problems.

If the head breaks off just wait until you get the bottom off and use a pair of vise grips and clamp down on the nail and use the round part of the vise grips and roll the nail out of the wood.

I you still can not get it out just sand it down flush to the frame when you sand to clean off the old glue to get to the raw wood.
Nov 01, 2011
 replace the bottom
by: Terry

I just finished replacing the bottom of a 14' semi v bottom Stauter.

The plywood was 3/8" fir and the keel was fastened to the surface and did not penetrate the plywood.

The v has to be cut in the plywood and rough cut the plywood along the chine and transom.

Start from the stern and work to the bow.

Do not splice on the frame.

I used 9200 to seal on the chine and stern and glue to the frame and deck runners.

I used brass screws to fasten with.

clean all of the 9200 that pressed out of the joints and let dry.

Sand the new plywood to the sides and transom.

Fill in the countersunk screw holes with wood filler.

Prime and paint and remember to thin your paint and sand between each coat.

I put on 4 coats of thin paint on the bottom and then installed the keel using the 9200 to seal it to the bottom.

I then panted 3 more thin coats to the bottom to finish.

Allow 3 days to dry before turning over to finish the inside.

I stripped the interior and varnished it.

This Stauter was the first boat built in 1968.



Oct 04, 2011
 She has a v- hull
by: Stan

Hi Andy,

Thanks I know you are right the bottom has a fairly deep v at the bow and gradually flattens out toward the stern.

It looks like the1/2" plywood goes the full length about 13' continuous on each side of the keel or the keel is aplied.

The stern is in good shape and that part of the bottom is sound.

The way she is framed the runners 1"1/2 x 1" are under the frames and go continuous.

Will the plywood just bend to fit then glue and nail?

There does not seem any logical place to splice.

Some of the runners will need to be replaced and some frame work as well.

Thanks for the encouragement to do what's right.

Thanks,

Stan
Oct 04, 2011
 Inside-out
by: Andy

Hi Stan,

I think the easiest way to repair your boat will be to replace the bottom plywood completely.

It isn’t as difficult a job as it might seem.

Trying to patch it up from the inside with epoxy might hold it temporally but it will be very temporary.

Trying to get ring nails out will end up leaving a big hole better just to leave them and cut or grind them flush.



Oct 03, 2011
 Bottom rot from the inside out
by: Stan

Thanks, the rotten wood seem to be from the inside out.

It is dry now and I have carefully taken most of the lose material from under the edges of the mahogany strips where the plywood has delaminated from standing water inside.

Is it possible to fill this in with resorcinol glue and build up the plywood with epoxy or glass from the inside.

The bottom has a few puncture hole from the out side wher the plywood has gotten thin.

Don't know just trying to find an easier way.

One of the problems I foresee is the brass ring nails are tough to pull out and break off.

Thanks,

Stan






Cedar Point Special
by: Mike

Hi Stan,

I guess the first thing to do is to get her under cover, if possible, where you can work on her.

Let her dry out.

Then turn her over and strip off any paint and rotten plywood so you can see how much is still sound.

Sounds like you will have to replace the bottom ply and maybe the transom.

Hopefully the frames are still OK and it is just the plywood that has rotted and delaminated.

But first thing is to cut away anything rotten and treat the rest to kill off any rot spores.

After that, it depends what you find.

Those Stauter Boats are great boats, well worth restoring and looking after.

They are still being built, to order and to the original designs, that’s how good the patterns were.

Do please get back to us and let us know how you get on with her.
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